I enjoy my time in each country, and my situation in each is different - in Brazil I own my own home and pay all my own utility bills and taxes (property, car and motorbike), while in Peru I rent all-inclusive and only pay motorbike tax. In Brazil I live in a remote rural area, 262 miles (420 kms) from the nearest city of any note, but in Peru I am only 10 miles (16 kms) from the third largest city in Peru. In Brazil I drive a car and a motorbike, while in Peru I have only ridden a motorbike. These small difference all have an impact on how I view the 2 countries and must be taken into consideration in the final "reckoning"!
1. Driving/Traffic.
Brazil:
Motorists in Brazil are all crazy! They all think they are Ayrton Senna (and this includes truck drivers) and that the road belongs to them. A car in front is there to be overtaken - even in a queue of traffic with no gaps available to slip into. Once your nose is in front of the other motorist you have priority and can force your way in, even if you are driving a double-trailer truck going uphill on the wrong side of the road over double white lines ("no overtaking") passing a queue of vehicles nose-to-tail all travelling at 12 mph (20 kph).
Motorcyclists believe they have right of way, and toot to get you to move aside (in your lane) to make room for them, and if you should dare to move into "their" lane, even if there is plenty of room and they are 50 metres back, they will ride into your bumper (fender) and blame you! Motorcyclists also believe that traffic signals do not apply to them and will pause before driving through red lights. Mind you, buses will also do the same thing!
In big cities like Salvador it is generally accepted at night (after 9.00 pm), and possibly at weekends (seems to happen but I am not sure if it is "acceptable"), that, due to the risk of car-jacking, you can ignore a red light if it is safe to do so! In Brazil they joke that you drive through a red light, drive faster through an amber, and stop at green - in case someone is approaching from the other direction!
I have driven extensively on highways and in Salvador in a car, but would not risk my life on 2 wheels doing this. My motorcycling is restricted to local around the town I live in, and short main road runs of up to 50 miles (80 kms) - I value my life too much!!
Peru:
Motorists in Peru all all crazy, but marginally less so than in Brazil! They are not as aggressive as in Brazil, but just seem unaware of any rules of the road. Lane discipline is appalling - if you want to turn left at a traffic light you can use any lane, even the extreme right-hand lane and cut across everyone. Even if there is a "no left turn" sign, or "no U-turns" it is OK to do so without any indication, or any concern about drivers following you not realising what you are doing!
There is an incredible amount of public transport in Peru, numerous buses - ranging from minibuses with 12 seats (that will fit 16 adults and 4 children at a pinch), to larger single-decker buses with 24 seats and standing (squashing) room for another 24, and taxis - I have never seen so many taxis in a city before - and in smaller towns the favoured mode of public transport is the three-wheeled Tuk Tuk.
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| Tuk Tuks in Moyobamba |
All this means is that 75% of the traffic (I think that this is a conservative estimate, as the percentage of "public" transport could be higher!) is continually stopping on the right side of the road (remember we drive on the right in South America), or slowing down to look for fares, or cutting across from the left to drop off/pick up/seek fares. Initially I cautiously rode my bike on the right, but soon realised that the safest position was riding to the extreme left, but watching out for all the illegal left-turners! You still have to keep your wits about you - I was turning right on one occasion and approached a traffic light - there was a taxi stopped in the centre lane (of three) to go straight, but as I was almost alongside his fare decided to alight, and opened the door into my bike almost knocking me off! Buses and taxis also will pick up, and drop off, fares indiscriminately in whichever lane they happen to be in at the time when stopped at traffic lights.
Speed limits are another problem in Peru - there do not seem to be many signs indicating what they are! Mostly they are still a total mystery to me in the absence of any indication, so I just tend to go with the flow and keep up with other motorists. I have not noticed any speed cameras during my travels in Peru, so haven't had any problems.
I was very nervous before my first trip into Trujillo by motorbike, but soon realised that driving in Peru was considerably safer than Brazil, despite the poor driving standards.
2. Cost of living.
Brazil:
Living in a very rural area in the North-east of Brazil the cost of living is very reasonable - fresh fruit and vegetables at the local market are cheap, as is meat at the sole butcher we have in town. The butcher does not have the range of cuts I would like, claiming there is insufficient demand for many of them, but we do have a mini-supermarket that also sells some frozen meat, though at a premium price! Availability of dry foodstuffs, and everyday household goods (cleaning materials, and so on) is generally pretty good, and prices (unless you insist on imported brands!) are reasonable, too.
Domestic goods are another thing altogether! We do not have anything available locally (there is a "depot" of a large store in town, but it obviously does not hold much of a range of goods), so a trip to Seabra (40 miles, or 70 kms away) is necessary for larger purchases, and even there the choice is not brilliant. Locally produced furnishings and white goods (fridges, cookers and the like) are reasonably priced, however most people complain about quality, though I have not had any issues, but am fairly gentle with my things!
Regular utility bills are reasonable in Brazil, water and electric are much cheaper in real terms than the UK, but if you compare average earnings they are fairly expensive - however my council tax bill is a fraction of what it would be there, but my internet bill is my single highest outgoing, and very expensive for what it is.
Petrol is about 25% cheaper than the UK at the moment, but has continued to rise throughout the falling oil price, and, again, comparing average earnings fuel is quite expensive here.
Not having to pay monthly rent makes my overall cost of living very cheap in Brazil, and buying a house when I first came in 2009 was probably the single most sensible thing I have ever done!
Peru:
Despite living in a tourist town in Northern Peru the cost of living in Huanchaco is very reasonable. There is a daily market in town with local produce at cheap prices, though I tend to steer clear of the meat they have on display there as I do not trust their hygiene standards in unrefrigerated displays. In Trujillo there are two (there are more, but I have only visited 2) big markets - one is huge and predominantly fresh produce, and prices there are incredibly cheap, and quality very good.
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| Hermelinda's Market, Trujillo |
The other market is more general, but does have fresh food, and a big butchery area, with good selection and reasonable prices, though sometimes hard to find cuts that I recognise!
Trujillo also has many large supermarkets, and though fresh produce is quite a bit more expensive that at the markets quality is excellent, and the range is extensive. Some of these supermarkets are really hypermarkets, and sell electrical goods as well, and the range and price appear considerably cheaper than Brazil. I have not had to shop for furniture in Peru, but from what I have seen in Trujillo the quality is higher than Brazil and, certainly compared to where I live, the choice is much greater, but you would expect that in such a large city.
3. Eating out.
Brazil:
When I first arrived in Brazil I was impressed by the reasonable cost of eating out - even the tourist places seemed fairly cheap, and quality of food was good. I live in tourist town, and there is a huge choice of eating venues, but prices tend to be much higher here than other local non-tourist towns, though there are small back-street places that cater for the locals if you know where to find them. There are eateries that charge by the kilo - you fill your plate and they weigh it and charge you depending in how full it is, and these are reasonable - unless you happen to be in a tourist hot-spot! I have seen these "per kilo" places three times more expensive depending on location, and quality and selection pretty much the same.
In the 5 years I have been here I do not eat out much locally, preferring to cook for myself, so only eat out on special occasions - and last time was amazed at how much prices have risen. I rather think that they are aimed at the tourist market, but I find eating out in Brazil no longer a cheap option.
Peru:
I live for the main part in a tourist location in Peru, but eating out is still relatively cheap, even at the higher end restaurants. Quality is good, portion sizes generous, and even in the tourist areas prices good, though probably helped by the amount of competition! many Peruvians eat out at lunchtime and there are numerous small restaurants (usually someone's front room!) serving a "menu". This consists of a starter, usually ceviche (lemon-"cooked" raw fish) or soup, followed by a choice of main course (usually three or four options), and a drink (this is generally some sort of squash). In Huanchaco you will pay between 8 and 12 soles (between £1.70 and £2.50) for this, but in the interior, away from the tourist towns, it can be as little as £0.85! The main restaurants in Huanchaco have caught on to this lunchtime fixed "menu" and offer similar deals for 12 to 15 soles (£2.50 to £3.20) which includes a soft drink, but portions are generally a little smaller.
During my travels I stayed at hotels that had their own restaurants, and whilst these are usually more expensive than you can find in town, in most cases I found the food to be better and cheaper than eating "out". I was surprised while travelling along the extreme North coast, prices in restaurants there were much higher than back in Huanchaco, also a tourist destination, and I can only assume it is because they are not as seasonal as further South due to warmer weather all year round, meaning more tourism all the time.
4. Accommodation
Brazil:
In Brazil you have Hotels (high end accommodation), Pousadas (guest house or inn, mid-range), or Auberges (hostels, cheap lodgings). I will admit I have not used many of these in Brazil - and there is a huge difference even in hostels here, from flea-pits to very nice accommodation. Most hostels offer mixed dormitory rooms, with up to 10 beds and an en-suite shared bathroom, but some have smaller rooms, and will always allow you to book a whole room for one person (at a premium, of course). Some have en-suite facilities, air-conditioning (and at least one has a small pool!), free breakfasts (and these can really vary from place to place), and various other services for their guests. Generally when I am paying (my nephew owns a hostel so I get to stay for free but take pot luck on the room!) I will book a single en-suite room, and prices are reasonable (much less than say, a bed and breakfast in the UK if you go for a single). I have stayed in Pousada and had a private room with air-conditioning, which was very nice and as it was just out of season was reasonable.
Peru:
In Peru you have hotels and hostals - hostals are like high-end hostels/mid-range hotels in Brazil. Dorm rooms are available in some, but most have smaller rooms with 1 to 4 beds, and may come with en-suite facilities, but some have shared bathrooms. Unlike Brazil may in Peru do not include breakfast in the price, and even if they do (or it is available at extra cost) it is not as good as the Brazilian hostel breakfast! You may get a glass of juice (probably from a packet), coffee and two small bread rolls with butter and jam, but there will be many places locally that will serve breakfast (especially bakeries) and these are much better and very reasonably priced.
Hostals in Peru, even in tourist destinations, are very reasonable, and especially so if you book through a booking site (one I stayed in was US$11 a night booked online, but the price list in reception showed US$20 a night!). One of my requirements while travelling was secure parking for my motorbike, so this limited my options considerably, so I ended staying at pricier lodgings than necessary, but none of them would be considered expensive.
I rent an apartment while staying in Peru, and this includes electric, water, TV and internet (I only have to pay for gas cylinders for cooking - usually one lasts me the whole 6 months). There are many options available in Huanchaco, especially from the beginning of March when the summer tourist season ends, but I have certain requirements that limit my choice, and push the price up a little! One was secure parking, and the other was a "proper" kitchen (many have a hotplate and a small fridge as they are aimed at the short-term rental market), but despite this my costs while in Peru were acceptable.
5. The people - I realise I may generalise a little here, and some may even take offence at some of this, but none is intended. I simply write about my experiences, and my views on life and the people I meet. I love living in Brazil and Peru, and the people I meet here - I would not stay if this were not the case. There are frustrations in the experiences I have, but they are minor irritations rather than major shortcomings!
I do not like to class people by ethnicity, either, as we are all citizens of the planet, but governments and statisticians like to have classifications so I will use them for clarity.
I do not like to class people by ethnicity, either, as we are all citizens of the planet, but governments and statisticians like to have classifications so I will use them for clarity.
Brazil:
Disclaimer - my experiences are almost exclusively with the people of Bahia, in the North-east, one of the poorest parts of Brazil. Brazil statistically has a population ethnically that is almost 50:50, that is 50% white, and the remaining 50% mixed race, black, Asian, or indigenous. However it varies greatly from state to state and here in Bahia, the white percentage drops to 20%, and in rural areas it is much lower still.
Brazilians are very friendly, and laid back to the point of being almost horizontal! No-one wears a wristwatch, and time is a vague concept - morning or afternoon is sometimes as close as you can tie anyone down, and that could be tomorrow or even next week!!
There are close to 3 million people in Salvador, and any large city has its problems, but the hustle and bustle of daily life there is similar to anywhere else in the world - however I am not a city dweller, and could not wait to get away from metropolitan areas!
Lencois, where I live, is much safer, and friendlier, as everyone seems to know everyone else, or knows someone who knows them. Again I cannot fault the people here on friendliness, but trying to find a skilled tradesman is a nightmare!! No-one appears to have any formal qualifications, but claims to either to be able to do any work you need, or has a friend who can. Unfortunately many of these people do not have the necessary skills, and much work is shoddy - the problem is there is little employment here and everyone is desperate to find work, so will "lie" in order to get the job. I think part of this too is that they want to make you happy, so will make wild claims - the ones you want to hear - even if they cannot deliver. You ask, "When can you deliver my furniture?" - they reply, "Tomorrow." "Wow, that is great!" - so you wait in all day, and when you call they give excuses, like "the van has broken down", the next day "we had a puncture", then the following day "well, when we checked the chair was broken, so we have had to order another", and so on, and eventually a week later you get the delivery - and that is when you were always going to get it! I just wish they would be honest from the outset!
There always seem to be parties going on - many organised by the local council - and fireworks! Fireworks are let off day and night indiscriminately, even by the church or other organisations, with no consideration for the feelings of others. They seem to think that if they want to make a noise they have a right to, day or night, or all day and all night, and to hell with everyone else.
I could go on, but will end Brazil with something that I see all the time - which is people just milling around in the streets. Any time of day there will be groups sitting on the pavements talking (and drinking!), or just hanging about. If you go into any shop or business there will usually be a few "friends" who have dropped in to pass the time of day, and others who just seem to hang out there permanently! The streets are always busy, and children are usually out playing (very loudly) as well.
Peru:
Disclaimer - my experiences in Peru are probably more extensive than Brazil, as I have travelled round more, however I have friends in Brazil, but only acquaintances in Peru (having spent less time there and always as a tourist).
Ethnically Peru has a very small white population, with only 5% considering themselves to be white, with 60% considered to be "mixed race", or mulatto, 8% Asian and black, and the remainder belonging to indigenous tribes. Peruvians appear to be a lot more serious, but equally friendly. A solo gringo touring around on a motorbike generates a lot of interest and people will come and strike up conversations. You will, however, rarely see groups just hanging around (though there are a lot of concrete sports pitches and a lot meet for a kick around with a football), and there are times of the day when the streets are almost deserted - no children out playing and no adults just standing or sitting idly. In Pisco, in the South, I walked towards the beach for over half an hour after a meeting, and did not see a soul the whole time. Even on my return I only saw the Tuk Tuks tooting for business!
I live in a different location in Peru, close to a large city, and as a result the quality of tradesmen appears much better, and they appear to get on with the work too, possibly because they have another job waiting for them to finish this one. Punctuality is better in Peru, as well.
Families appear to be very important in Peru, and you often see families out for a walk together at the weekend - fathers appear to play a strong role in family life, though I do know that there are still many single parent families with absent fathers!
6. Conclusion:
On the whole I think Peru is slightly cheaper than Brazil to live in, and certainly feels safer on the roads. It is hard to compare city life - Trujillo seems safe to me, and despite riding around a lot I have never felt threatened there, not even riding in remote areas alone. One third of Peru's population lives in the Lima metropolitan area, and this causes huge social problems, and I believe Lima has serious safety problems as a result, much as found in the huge metropolitan sprawls in Brazil (but since I wouldn't live in a big city anywhere I can discount this in my summation!). Shopping and availability of everything comes out in favour of Peru, too, though I think that the people of Brazil are warmer overall.
If cost of living were my only criteria, I would have to find in favour of Peru, and there are very few areas where Brazil "wins", but ... I love the part of Brazil I live in, I love the simplicity of the people (and I do not mean this in a bad way!), and the way of life, and if I had to choose one to live in permanently I think it would be Brazil. However as things stand I have the best of both worlds, as long as I am able to spend 6 months in each country!!
Brazilians are very friendly, and laid back to the point of being almost horizontal! No-one wears a wristwatch, and time is a vague concept - morning or afternoon is sometimes as close as you can tie anyone down, and that could be tomorrow or even next week!!
There are close to 3 million people in Salvador, and any large city has its problems, but the hustle and bustle of daily life there is similar to anywhere else in the world - however I am not a city dweller, and could not wait to get away from metropolitan areas!
Lencois, where I live, is much safer, and friendlier, as everyone seems to know everyone else, or knows someone who knows them. Again I cannot fault the people here on friendliness, but trying to find a skilled tradesman is a nightmare!! No-one appears to have any formal qualifications, but claims to either to be able to do any work you need, or has a friend who can. Unfortunately many of these people do not have the necessary skills, and much work is shoddy - the problem is there is little employment here and everyone is desperate to find work, so will "lie" in order to get the job. I think part of this too is that they want to make you happy, so will make wild claims - the ones you want to hear - even if they cannot deliver. You ask, "When can you deliver my furniture?" - they reply, "Tomorrow." "Wow, that is great!" - so you wait in all day, and when you call they give excuses, like "the van has broken down", the next day "we had a puncture", then the following day "well, when we checked the chair was broken, so we have had to order another", and so on, and eventually a week later you get the delivery - and that is when you were always going to get it! I just wish they would be honest from the outset!
There always seem to be parties going on - many organised by the local council - and fireworks! Fireworks are let off day and night indiscriminately, even by the church or other organisations, with no consideration for the feelings of others. They seem to think that if they want to make a noise they have a right to, day or night, or all day and all night, and to hell with everyone else.
I could go on, but will end Brazil with something that I see all the time - which is people just milling around in the streets. Any time of day there will be groups sitting on the pavements talking (and drinking!), or just hanging about. If you go into any shop or business there will usually be a few "friends" who have dropped in to pass the time of day, and others who just seem to hang out there permanently! The streets are always busy, and children are usually out playing (very loudly) as well.
Peru:
Disclaimer - my experiences in Peru are probably more extensive than Brazil, as I have travelled round more, however I have friends in Brazil, but only acquaintances in Peru (having spent less time there and always as a tourist).
Ethnically Peru has a very small white population, with only 5% considering themselves to be white, with 60% considered to be "mixed race", or mulatto, 8% Asian and black, and the remainder belonging to indigenous tribes. Peruvians appear to be a lot more serious, but equally friendly. A solo gringo touring around on a motorbike generates a lot of interest and people will come and strike up conversations. You will, however, rarely see groups just hanging around (though there are a lot of concrete sports pitches and a lot meet for a kick around with a football), and there are times of the day when the streets are almost deserted - no children out playing and no adults just standing or sitting idly. In Pisco, in the South, I walked towards the beach for over half an hour after a meeting, and did not see a soul the whole time. Even on my return I only saw the Tuk Tuks tooting for business!
I live in a different location in Peru, close to a large city, and as a result the quality of tradesmen appears much better, and they appear to get on with the work too, possibly because they have another job waiting for them to finish this one. Punctuality is better in Peru, as well.
Families appear to be very important in Peru, and you often see families out for a walk together at the weekend - fathers appear to play a strong role in family life, though I do know that there are still many single parent families with absent fathers!
6. Conclusion:
On the whole I think Peru is slightly cheaper than Brazil to live in, and certainly feels safer on the roads. It is hard to compare city life - Trujillo seems safe to me, and despite riding around a lot I have never felt threatened there, not even riding in remote areas alone. One third of Peru's population lives in the Lima metropolitan area, and this causes huge social problems, and I believe Lima has serious safety problems as a result, much as found in the huge metropolitan sprawls in Brazil (but since I wouldn't live in a big city anywhere I can discount this in my summation!). Shopping and availability of everything comes out in favour of Peru, too, though I think that the people of Brazil are warmer overall.
If cost of living were my only criteria, I would have to find in favour of Peru, and there are very few areas where Brazil "wins", but ... I love the part of Brazil I live in, I love the simplicity of the people (and I do not mean this in a bad way!), and the way of life, and if I had to choose one to live in permanently I think it would be Brazil. However as things stand I have the best of both worlds, as long as I am able to spend 6 months in each country!!
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