Rules of the road in Peru - apparently!

The apparent driving rules of Peru

Having driven in Peru now for almost 12000 kms (7500 miles) I feel that I am an expert on the rules of the road, so am prepared to share them with everyone. I have not seen a written version of these, nor am aware of the existence of such a thing, so these are drawn up from my experiences, and observation of other motorists!

    1.      Speed limits.

There do not seem to be any speed limits in Peru, illustrated by the absence of signage. Occasionally you may see a sign stating “35” but there is never any sign showing an end to this restriction, so I can only assume it is NOT a speed limit, but some other indication. On the open road I have seen a sign saying “speed limit” 90kph, but 200 metres further along there was another large sign showing “maximum speed 80kph, minimum speed 55kph”, so these must be purely decorative.

I generally travel by motorbike around the 90-100kph (I do know that 100kph is nominally the maximum speed, but not sure exactly where this applies as have seen no indications) mark, and am passed by every private car on the road, usually travelling at speeds approaching 160kph, and have also been overtaken by buses and trucks who must also be travelling well in excess of the assumed 100kph.

In rural areas – usually indicated by a sign saying “urban zone” but no speed limit signs – the way to make vehicles reduce speed is by the strategic placement of …

   2.       Speed bumps.

These are everywhere, and may appear in groups of two. They vary in size and shape, from gentle curves that no-one needs to slow for, to short, sharp bumps that can rip out the undercarriage of low vehicles, or smash the suspension of heavily laden ones (hence their local names of “spring breaker”, not to be confused with the time of debauchery at US colleges). Most, admittedly, do have warning signs letting motorists know about their presence, and some are even zebra-striped for further warning, but many appear suddenly for the unwary, resulting in heavy braking, or other evasive tactics. Some vehicles approach these in a crab-like fashion, preferring the one-wheel-at-a-time way of getting over, but my motorcycle approach is much simpler – stand on the footpegs and ride straight over without slowing (though fully laden with my carriers attached this often leads to sheared bolts!).

Some speed bumps appear to be made for motorcyclists as they do not stretch on to the hard shoulder, meaning you can ride round them with no slowing down, too. Occasionally the “bump” will also only be on one side of the carriageway, meaning that vehicles can avoid them by driving towards oncoming traffic, which can be very disconcerting for the unwary motorist who suddenly finds himself sharing the road with an approaching juggernaut!

  3.       Lane etiquette.

Unlike most countries where slower traffic uses the outer (closest to the kerb) lane – this is the left lane in UK and right-hand drive countries, and the right lane everywhere else – in Peru slow moving vehicles (heavy trucks, three-wheelers, and so on) tend to hog the “fast” lane, meaning that you have to “undertake” to get past. Even where there is no traffic in the “slow” lane the outer lane tends to be the preferred lane for most traffic, and most overtaking is, in fact, undertaking. Approaching one of these monsters on his “blind side” (as the driver is seated on the left) can be rather scary on a motorcycle, but the hard shoulder is always available as an escape route.

On single carriageways the hard shoulder is used almost exclusively by three-wheeled moto-taxis. They have a top speed on around 50kph so tend to stick on the shoulder leaving the lane clear. This, however, causes problems for faster single light (two-wheeled) vehicles, like motorbikes, as oncoming traffic expects you to get out of their way onto said hard shoulder, and will flash their lights, while overtaking towards you, to inform you of this. At 90-100kph, however, I am often reluctant to move off the roadway, onto a shoulder full of loose dirt, pot-holes, roadkill, and goodness knows what else (sometimes there is also a 5cm – 2 inch! – drop onto the shoulder too) – and usually indicate this by flashing my lights back at them and waggling my middle finger vigorously as well.

 4.       Animals on the roads.

I am talking domesticated animals here, not the wild indigenous game, and whereas in many countries (particularly Brazil where I spend half the year) most roadside animals (placed there to forage on the roadside vegetation) appear to be tethered this is not the case in Peru. Occasionally there will be a sign warning of animals ahead, but mostly it is down to driver’s vigilance. I have come across untended horses, donkeys, cattle, sheep, goats, pigs and even turkeys – and on many occasions there is no evidence of any habitation close by.

In the foothills of the Andes, where pathways are few and far between, and the main road is often the only way of getting from A to B, you often come across attended animals. Usually the attendant is at the rear of the herd, so you first come across animals all over the road, and then notice the herder behind. Sometimes the animals will have a rope attached, but these are generally tailing across the road behind them, so are an additional hazard. 

 5.       Town driving.

Most towns in Peru follow a grid pattern, and streets alternate one-way in each direction. This is sometimes, but not always, indicated by a direction arrow painted on a wall at a road junction, or even incorporated into the street name sign – it is the ones that have no indication that are problematic for strangers to the town! I have several times found myself driving innocently towards oncoming traffic.

Lane discipline is again a major grey area – taxis and buses generally have to stop on the right to collect or discharge passengers, but at traffic lights are permitted (apparently) to pick up in any lane, and even hold up traffic once the light has changed. Collecting on the right is sensible, but this usually takes place at a junction (there are very few “official” bus stops), and often then entails a swift crossing of all the lanes to make a left turn if needed, accompanied by the driver’s arm waving frantically from his window indicating his intention. This right lane to left - and left lane to right - turning is common at traffic lights – approaching drivers will take the shortest queue, no matter which way they wish to turn, and then simply turn across everyone!

Where there are dual carriageways (with traffic islands separating traffic with openings for turning and joining traffic) I generally drive on the left as close as possible to the island – I used to drive on the right, but buses and taxis cutting me off to drop off, or pick up, fares made me realise that staying as close to the centre island was the safest place to travel – other vehicles still cut you off (the rule appears to be that if your nose is in front you have right of way and can change lane with impunity), but you only have to keep a look out on one side, not also for pedestrians stepping out, cars pulling out, and car doors opening. I was once almost taken out by a taxi who was stopped at a traffic light in the centre of three lanes – I wanted to turn right so took the empty right-hand lane, only for his passenger to open the rear door, as the light changed to green, to disembark – a quick swerve by me avoided more than a tap by the taxi door.

 6.       Roundabouts

These appear to be a mystery to everyone! Unlike the UK, where traffic already on the roundabout has priority, here oncoming traffic has right of way – at least most of the time! It would appear that there are occasions when traffic on the major road has priority – so if you are travelling along the main road and enter a roundabout (your priority) you maintain that priority throughout the roundabout, and oncoming traffic has to give way to you. However there doesn’t appear to be any indication where this occurs, so you have to close your eyes and take your chance.

 7.       Traffic lights

Traffic lights have three phases:

a)      Red – stop if it is already red when you get there (unless you think you can get away with it), but if it changed to red just before you arrive accelerate and you should be OK. If you arrive at a changing light and are slowing down to stop have a quick check in your rear-view mirror as the following motorist may be expecting you to jump the light, and may not be planning to stop himself!

b)      Amber – Just another shade of green, ignore it, or speed up

c)       Green – a second before it turns green start moving, or if you are not the lead vehicle lean on your hooter (in some towns the traffic lights have a countdown to change so it is easy to see when to start hooting – 3 seconds before zero, or when to start driving – also 3 seconds before zero, while the light is still red). Do be aware that there is more than likely a car coming across the lights (jumping the red) so cross with caution, especially if you are ready to drive off, and not one of those drivers who still has to put the car in gear and disengage the handbrake (or even start the engine you have stopped to save fuel at the lights!) before pulling away. There is no “grace” period when all lights are red – as one turns red the cross traffic light instantly turns green.

I have already mentioned the right to left/left to right turning issues before, and nowhere is this more evident that at traffic lights. If you are in the “wrong” lane at a traffic light the solution is simple – start driving before the light changes to green and turn where you want to go!

 8.       Traffic policemen

Many busy junctions in towns have at least one traffic policeman – with a whistle that they blow incessantly. I have not yet worked out what the whistle sounds mean, so they may just be blowing it to let you know they are there, though they do get a bit frantic at time when they see something strange (like a bus stopping in the middle of turning to drop passengers because there are other buses blocking where they need to stop) and will blow till they are red in the face while also gesticulating wildly.

On the open highway there are also many police checkpoints, and they will stop random drivers for a document check. Generally if you remove your crash helmet, and reveal that you are a Gringo, rather than ask for “prata” (silver, ie. cash), as many people warned me about, they get quite excited, as though you are the highlight of their day, and wave you along without checking any paperwork. I have had them shake hands with me, and ask my opinion of Peru, but never had any request for a “donation”! A few days ago I was waved over by one seated in the middle of a dual carriageway on a sharp bend (this was in town so on a slow corner) – I pulled over to the edge of the road and he followed. After several attempts to stand his bike up in the soft sand in front of me he drove off! However he did stop a few yards further down and walked back. A cursory glance at my documents after I revealed my Gringo-ness, and he nodded and strolled back to his bike. Another biker, without a crash helmet (they are obligatory, but appear to be “optional”!) rode past so he whistled at him, repeatedly as the rider ignored him, but as by the time he got back to his bike the other bike was well down the road he simply shrugged and left it!

 9.       Parking.

Parking is still a major mystery to me, but doesn’t appear to be to Peruvians – they simply park where they like! In no parking zones, on corners, on zebra crossings (Oh, forgot to mention them – pedestrians have to give way, not motorists!), across driveways, on the pavement, blocking roads … it just goes on. I thought I had worked out that if the kerb was painted yellow it meant “no parking” but no-one takes any notice so I must be wrong.

There are some parking garages, where you pay to park, though many for some reason will not take motorbikes (the ones that do will also look after your crash helmet), and some mall parking lots give you a (free) ticket when you arrive where they write your ID number and number plate, for security, and check this when you leave.

The general rule for parking appears to be to park as close to where you want to be as possible – this may mean parking on the pavement (so pedestrians have to go round you), double parking (as someone is already parked where you want to be), parking opposite another parked vehicle (thus blocking the road), parking on someone’s drive, or so close he cannot open his garage door, or in the middle of the road as there is some other obstruction (like an advertising board) preventing you from stopping right outside the door. These all apply even if there are no other cars parked in the street – there is no reason you should have to walk more than a few paces.

I realise that this list is incomplete as there are numerous scenarios I haven’t yet experienced, and some I may have omitted as I felt they must be wrong! This latter category includes making left turns, or U-turns where there are signs forbidding them – the “No left turn” and “No U turn” signs here must mean something else!

To my Peruvian friends and acquaintances I mean no malice by this, but am just having a bit of fun!! I am sure that driving in the UK is just as bad – well, at least by all the foreigners over there!!