Sunday 30 September 2018

The Grand Tour - Part 10 - Tarapoto, part 2 - Laguna Azul

We had been able to see the lake for some time before we finally reached the village at the head of it, and disembarked for our boat trip round the lake.


Under a glowering sky we walked along the jetty and embarked


The lake extends some 4.3 square kms

Looking across from the jetty

Not a normal "selfie" fan, but this was to show the excitement at putting on life jackets!

Suitably "protected" we headed out!
The lake is a very popular spot, not only for tourists, but also for residents of Tarapoto, especially at the weekend.

Some rather attractive dwellings and hotels along the shore

Our first stop was a "traditional" homestead - this was looking back towards Sauce town

There were people living there, but it looked more like a tourist driven artificial village

This was a pet young "tigrillo" or Ocelot that was being carried round for photo opportunities - for a few soles you could hold it and have your photo taken. It was very docile.

They also had this python, which was more popular - however I had seen them taping the jaws shut with sellotape earlier, which can be seen in the photo, and I was concerned that this could be damaging to the snake's skin. 
Chickens and Guinea Fowl wandering around

The town of Sauce in the distance

Other lakeside resorts


Kayaks for hire, too, anything to make a profit! There was also a bar, and crafts for sale, and some of my companions had something to eat
I know that indigenous communities around the world often struggle for survival, but wasn't sure whether this was exploitation or not - hiring out kayaks, and posing for animal photos with tourists is not my idea of "traditional village life"!
We soon headed off further into the lake 
The lake narrows to the South

This incredible structure jutted out over the lake

Our guide told us that there was an army barracks nearby, and as part of the training the soldiers had to go for a run across the countryside in full battle gear (40kg packs and weapons) and had to jump off this platform and swim across the lake - those who didn't get back to the barracks were considered to have failed!

This part of the lake didn't appear to be inhabited, so was much nicer
There were a few other tour boats on the lake, but they tended to keep their distance.
Lake Sauce (Laguna Azul)

Our second stop was at a tourist resort, with an opportunity to walk round, ride a horse round the field, fish, have a drink at the bar or simply some cold coconut milk, fresh in the husk

This is where the lake empties into the river, meaning the water is kept fresh

I opted to just wander around, and this is the view back to the resort
I did go for a gentle ride round the field

... and my horse got a well-earned rest afterwards! Not sure if it was well-fed or expecting!
These fruits looked like melons, but I never found out their names, though I was told they are used in local medicine

There was a good flow of water out of the lake

Hollow tree possibly from a lightning strike

Mating Damsel Flies
We soon moved on from the resort to our final destination, where we would have lunch - and by now I was certainly ready for that!
Approaching our restaurant for lunch

My fellow travellers waiting for lunch - they didn't look too happy so must have been hungry too!!

There was also an accompaniment of gift stalls, bars and a boy with a monkey for photo

... and another "melon" tree

This very spiky tree, called a Silk Floss Tree ...

... was standing in the lake

On the way back we passed this couple trying their hand a paddling a canoe.
 At one stage as we headed back the boat driver suddenly did a quick turn and then scooped a small bird out of the water 


Looks like a dove that must have got tired and fallen into the water - very fortunate that he was spotted in such a large expanse of water
 It sat calmly on the seat next to me all the way back to Sauce, where it was released - very lucky still to be alive.


As a tourist location there are also high powered speedboats around - this one towing an inflatable - and creating a large wake.
Soon it was time to head back to Tarapoto, after a thoroughly enjoyable day out in such a beautiful location - the journey back to my Inn was uneventful, especially as the road had dried out a good deal, and our driver safely navigated the slippery out-ramp off the ferry, which others still seemed to have problems with in similar vehicles to ours!

Wednesday 26 September 2018

The Grand Tour - Part 9 - Tarapoto, part 1 - Laguna Azul, getting there

The Leito Inn arranged trips to local amenities, so I did some searching and decided to visit the Laguna Azul, correctly named Laguna Sauce, and booked for the following day. A minibus collected me from the Inn, and I joined the dozen or so passengers already on board. It does rain a lot in that part of Peru, and it wasn't long before we came across a landslip partially blocking the road!


Landslip partially blocking the road

I was fortunately sitting in the front of the minibus so was able to take a lot of photos through the windscreen during our outing!
Shortly afterwards we turned off the tarmac onto a dirt road leading to the ferry,
which became very muddy as we approached the Rio Huallaga)one of the tributaries of the Amazon)
Approach to the ferry - very slippery!

Ferry coming from the other side

Only way across the Rio Huallaga is by ferry

Downriver

Ferry nearing our side

I must admit that I was a little apprehensive about this crossing, and there were other vehicles waiting as well, but it was all part of the adventure!



It took quite a while to disembark and embark due to the slippery mud, but I was pleased to see that our driver, despite not being in a 4x4 managed to get on the ferry with relative ease - unlike some of the others who required several attempts and much pushing!

We were fairly tightly packed but all passengers had to disembark the vehicles as a safety precaution

Some of my fellow travellers

Where we had got on 

Middle of the Rio Huallaga

Exit ramp the other side


Close up it didn't look any more inviting

Recent rains had created this gully next to the ramp
The ferry staff took a long time ensuring the ramp was correctly placed - before letting us continue. We had to walk ashore while the buses squirmed through the mud, before being allowed to take our seats again.


Positioning the exit ramp boards

The driver in front had to disembark his passengers a second time to make it all the way up the exit slope and onto the "main" road

The road was very wet, and there was thick mud and puddles in places along it!


Fresh rain had created puddles

And turned the road into a muddy path

In places rainwater run-off had created hazardous conditions

And we had to pick our way carefully through the rocks

Reminded me of roads in Africa in the 60's!
But as we climbed out of the valley the road improved
We stopped off at a viewpoint looking back over the Huallaga valley,


Panoramic view of the Huallaga Valley
which offered spectacular views of the surrounding countryside.


Rio Huallaga upriver

At the top is the tarred road we had come along, cut into the hillside, and below a second ferry crossing

I believe this was used by passengers on larger buses, hence all the seating

The road we had followed snaking up this side

At the viewpoint there was a small dwelling built into the mountainside, which we were told was another "Seguridad" post (as a popular viewpoint most vehicles stopped there so there was a need for security), however no-one was there when we stopped

Our ferry crossing had been just past where the river went out of sight
We continued upwards and over the hills on this bank, the dirt road in much better condition that down in the valley, but still slippery in places, and at times covered with small stones washed down from the hillsides.


Nestled in the hills were private hotels and residences

We finally reached Laguna Azul.

We eventually reached the lake and prepared for the next part of the trip - by boat!