Friday 5 October 2018

The Grand Tour - Part 12 - Tarapoto to Florida

I mentioned that on my way to Moyobamba and Tarapoto I had paused at Florida, Lake Pomacochas, and booked a couple of nights for my return to explore the lake - 2 nights because the next leg of my trip to Pacora, was going to be my longest at almost 400 kms, so felt I needed a whole day to gird my loins before this stage.
I was retracing my steps on this stage so the familiarity with the route made it a reasonable ride 
Alto Mayo forest, from the way up - and in the dry!

Toll station - one of several - but motorbikes are exempt from payment, though not always clear which side you should go through!
and I arrived in Florida early afternoon.
This was one of the cheapest places I stayed at, but this is what greeted me in my room!
 Lake Pomacochas is a destination for Peruvian tourists, so prices are very reasonable, though it is quite a long way from anywhere so does not get that many passing through, meaning prices are very reasonable - I think my single en-suite room (which included a simple breakfast) cost me S/.20 a night, which is £5!


Lake Pomacochas from my bedroom


Looking up towards the main road

My route home would tale me along the winding road in the middle distance

The only downside to Florida is that it was an internet dead zone! There was an internet cafe but they themselves admitted that the service was poor, and were not letting people connect in protest to their ISP, who were planning to install an upgrade "soon"!
On my way through to Moyobamba on the main road I had passed a Hummingbird Sanctuary, not that far from Florida, so decided to visit that before I explored the lake the following day, which was Sunday, Mother's Day, so duly rode up there next morning arriving just before 09.00.
View of the lake from the road to the Hummingbird Sanctuary

Hummingbird Sanctuary
The gate was locked, and there was no sign indicating opening hours, nor any contact information. It was quite a distance from the gate down to the main buildings - too far to be heard calling - so I simply waited a while, admiring the views.
I was back in the Andes so the scenery was spectacular

The route I would be taking tomorrow

Panoramic view

I was higher than the clouds
  I waited for over half an hour, but with no sign of any activity decided to return to the lake - I had researched the sanctuary while I was in Moyobamba and there was no mention of opening hours, or any other issues, but I found out later that it doesn't open on a Sunday! I would have thought that Sunday - and Mother's Day - would have been a perfect opportunity to show off their wonderful work to the public, but it was not to be.


Stopped off on the way back to Florida
Sunday, however, was the day of cattle sales in Florida (the whole area is renowned for dairy products)
Some magnificent bulls tethered well apart

Vultures hoping for some scraps!

The same Black Vulture we have in Brazil

It appeared to be quite a celebration with much alcohol being consumed!
The short road to the lake passed the showground, but the lake was very quiet still. I walked along the wooden boardwalk to the boats and agreed a price for a tour of the lake, which was S/.20 (about £5.00), and climbed aboard. We were just about to set off when a family of 3 arrived, and I hear him quote them only S/.15.00! I wasn't that concerned as they were Peruvian, and often their is a "national" and "international" rate, but he came along and refunded me S/.5, saying that S/.20 was for a solo trip!
The vessel was pretty basic, but very stable

Dark clouds all around

Some of the larger boats - to the right - did have rain covers, but I am not sure if they sailed in them

The far end of the lake looked equally overcast
Eventually we set off and left the shore behind
Separated from the lake in that direction was a Trout farm - kept away from the voracious Tilapia bred in the main lake


Florida, behind us

We came across large flocks of nesting Great Egrets

... who were not too bothered by our proximity

The clouds were still closing in ...

... and we did get some light rain
At one stage the boat headed straight for a small gap in the reeds, and we pushed through to where some people were waiting - the boat doubled up as a water taxi, and collected 4 people with several bundles wanting to go to Florida!

We headed in here to pick up some passengers
 On the way back we stopped at the Tilapia "nursery", where they feed the smaller fish before releasing them into the main lake.
Tilapia "nursery"

Feeding time - Tilapia are predatory fish and will eat anything, so the Trout have to be kept separately

Low clouds over Florida

We diverted to pass another Great Egret colony

Once back I went for lunch in the visitor centre - the lady remembered me from my trip on the way through, and I had fried Tilapia for my late lunch! There were now a few people around, it being Mother's Day, but not as busy as I expected it might get.
The cloud cover had kept the sun away, which I was grateful for as I burn very easily.
I took a short siesta before heading out for dinner
A common sight in Peru - this lady, outside her front door, selling Anticuchos (skewered meat) and fried plantain (a type of banana) on a small barbecue
... but did give the street vendors a miss. I didn't want to risk an upset stomach for the long ride in the morning!

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