Saturday 6 October 2018

The Grand Tour - Part 14 - Rancho Santana

For my trip homewards I had looked for an overnight location near Olmos, near where the Tarapoto road met the old Panamerican Highway, which would have been around 320 kms (200 miles) from Florida. That may not seem like much for a day's ride, but experience had now taught me that average speeds, accounting for stops for photos, meals, fuel, and "comfort", were in the region of 50kph, so that meant around 6 hours riding - and by then my butt was telling me (remember Oli is a trail bike, so doesn't have a touring-comfortable seat!) to stop for the day. Also I never wanted a repeat of the 9 hour ride between Cajamarca and Chachapoyas!
Unfortunately the booking site I used had nothing near Olmos, the closest being at Pacora, or even further at Lambayeque, and Rancho Santana sounded lovely, though it was so cheap I was a little concerned what it would be like. As it turned out it was wonderful, and I have made 4 further stays there, including a three-night one to explore the area (I actually intended to try some horse-riding, but the Swiss lady owner politely told me that at the time they only had small ponies available who would not be able to carry me!!).
My "room" was a large bungalow a little way from the farmhouse, which had a double bed and a bunk bed, plus a very big en-suite, and outside it had a small "garden" with a seating area and a hammock! Breakfast was included in the price, but other meals had to be taken in the town of Pacora, which was a five minute walk away, though I tended to use the bike since it was a dark and dusty track to the town.


"My" bungalow

Often one of the 5 cats would come over to visit - this was the friendliest
The farm is owned by Andrea, a Swiss lady married to a Peruvian man, and specialises in horse riding excursions, though is such a beautiful and peaceful spot that it is great just to stop off and recharge the batteries. There are 6 dogs on site, 5 cats, several horses, a couple of cows and goats, lots of chickens and a few ducks, as well as numerous birds that abound in the area - but the piece de resistance is they have Burrowing Owls on site, who pose nicely for photos!


This was one of the entrances to the owls' nest


I first spotted an owl in a tree outside my window

... who didn't seem that bothered by my attention

I then spotted two more, and asked Andrea about them and she told me they were nesting nearby

Although like all owls they hunt at dusk and during the night, these do spend a lot of time out during the day

... and pose happily for photos!
Beautiful ducks

Wattles around the face
This little duckling was wandering around alone - the adults chased him away if he approached, and I was told that he was the only survivor of the clutch. He did seem to be managing, though



2 of the 6 dogs on the farm

Some of the chickens

Horses
Horse riding is the main part of the farm's operation and people come from far for day trips out, as well as staying in the accommodation and visiting the local archaeological sites. They also take on volunteers at times to help with the care of the horses, in exchange for accommodation and free riding!


Mockingbird

Another Mockingbird in a tree

Pacific Hornero - related to Ovenbirds

While swinging gently in the hammock I looked up and saw these wasps - but they posed no threat
I saved the best till last - I freely admit I am a cat person, and as there were 5 on the farm, and most very friendly I was in heaven!


2 watching from a distance

This male was unsure about me so hid on the roof of the chicken coop

This lovely lady had just come back from the vet where she had been spayed, but seemed in fine spirits

... and visited me as I relaxed outside

... even having a gentle nibble on my finger
The following morning I had a leisurely breakfast with Andrea, after she dropped her daughter off at school - I was in no hurry to leave this wonderful place, and knew I didn't have a very long ride ahead of me, but eventually had to pack up and get on my way. Ahead was about 250 kms, mostly along the very fast Panamerican Highway, and home!

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